Las reconversiones del barrio Matadero-Franklin
Viviendo entre cachivaches, maquinarias y cazuelas
- Textos: Andrés Morales.
- Fotos: Verónica Aguirre/ Memoria Chilena. Biblioteca Nacional de Chile.
El barrio Matadero-Franklin, ubicado al sur de la comuna de Santiago, es reconocido por sus “mercados persas”, donde las ofertas, las oportunidades únicas y la variedad de productos disponibles son las estrellas de cada venta. Sin embargo, detrás de estos enormes galpones se esconde una historia de esfuerzo y trabajo marcada por momentos de crisis y por la constancia y el coraje de sus habitantes.
(1)
En 1847, el empresario Antonio Jacobo Vial y Formas donó al municipio de Santiago unos terrenos próximos al Zanjón de la Aguada, al sur del centro histórico de la ciudad, para fundar ahí el nuevo Matadero Municipal. Aprovechando el impulso de esta acción construyó la primera población residencial en torno al Matadero, generando así un nuevo polo urbano en el sector. Sin embargo, la falta de planificación y la escasa consciencia respecto a la necesidad de contar con viviendas higiénicas, sumado a la presencia de partes de animales en descomposición debido a las faenas del Matadero y a las aguas permanentemente contaminadas del Zanjón de la Aguada, transformó rápidamente a este barrio en un lugar plagado de epidemias, pestes, pobreza y delincuencia.
(2)
Hacia fines del siglo XIX, diversas industrias comenzaron a instalarse en el barrio Matadero, aprovechando las grandes extensiones de terreno disponibles. Este auge industrial fue potenciado por el Estado, el cual conectó a este sector con el resto de la ciudad a través del Ferrocarril de Circunvalación impulsado por el intendente Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna. Así, en 1890 se inauguró la Estación San Diego, la cual permitía transportar productos desde el Matadero hasta la Estación Central, para luego partir a diversas zonas del país. La bonanza del salitre permitió que el Estado construyera un nuevo y moderno edificio para el Matadero, el cual fue diseñado por los arquitectos Hermógenes del Canto y Alberto Schade. Otra gran obra de mejora fue la Población Huemul, diseñada por el arquitecto Ricardo Larraín Bravo e inaugurada en 1911, la cual incorporó por primera vez los conceptos modernos de salubridad e higiene en el diseño de viviendas, alejándose de los conventillos y ranchos que antes poblaban el barrio. Es en este contexto que abrió en 1920 uno de los restaurantes más antiguos e icónicos del barrio, “El Manchao”, al cual asistían políticos, artistas e intelectuales que se codeaban con los matarifes del Matadero y con los obreros de las industrias aledañas.
Todas estas mejoras se vieron truncadas por la crisis mundial de 1929, la cual provocó el cierre de varias fábricas en el país. Las familias, buscando un medio para subsistir, comenzaron a vender cachureos, objetos en desuso y artesanías, utilizando las veredas en torno al Matadero como sus vitrinas y creando así, espontáneamente, los primeros “mercados persas”. Hacia mediados del siglo XX, la situación económica de los residentes del barrio no parecía mejorar y comenzaron a surgir las llamadas “poblaciones callampas” en la ribera del Zanjón de la Aguada, compuestas por construcciones precarias entre pasajes de tierra y barro.
(5)
El barrio estaba cambiando. Las industrias sobrevivientes subsistían a duras penas y el Matadero debía modernizar su método de trabajo e implementar medidas más higiénicas, pues corría el riesgo de ser cerrado por sus constantes problemas relacionados con la salud de sus trabajadores y de los vecinos. A pesar de sus esfuerzos, en 1973, luego de más de 120 años de funcionamiento, el Matadero Municipal cerró sus puertas y se trasladó a un lugar más moderno en Lo Valledor, dejando su gran edificio de principios de siglo abandonado. La nueva crisis económica de 1982 obligó a los comerciantes a potenciar la venta de objetos y cachureos, utilizando ahora los antiguos galpones abandonados del Matadero y de otras industrias para albergar sus improvisados puestos. Luego, ya avanzada la década de 1990, los mercados persas del barrio Matadero-Franklin se consolidaron como uno de los espacios más icónicos de Santiago para buscar no sólo cachivaches, sino que también antigüedades y artículos de colección.
(6)
El histórico ambiente popular y el espíritu de superación de los comerciantes del barrio fue un estímulo para que varias emprendedoras decidieran instalar sus proyectos junto al viejo Matadero. Una de las pioneras en el emprendimiento femenino fue la diseñadora de vestuario Carolina Pérez, quien en 2007 fundó su propia marca de ropa reciclada, “ArteAntiguo, Ropa con Historia”, y desde entonces se dedica a darle una segunda vida a telas y géneros en desuso desde uno de los galpones del barrio. Dos años después, la cocinera Leonor Luengo instaló su “picá” de comida mexicana llamada “El Taco Azteca”, la cual rescata la tradición picante y sazonada de los tacos mexicanos e incluso ha sido invitada a exponer sus productos en dicho país.
Las artistas Loreto Sapiaín y Romina Aura también vieron en el barrio una oportunidad para desarrollar su proyecto artístico independiente. Desde 2013 mantienen en funcionamiento la galería “La Perla del Mercado”, donde buscan democratizar el acceso al arte a través de la exhibición y comercialización de diferentes obras artísticas. Este ambiente colaborativo atrajo a la diseñadora Manuela Iribarren, quien junto a su hermano Lucas fundaron en 2012 la empresa “By Maria”, enfocada en la producción de pickles y encurtidos con productos 100% nacionales. El año 2019 comenzaron el traslado de sus instalaciones hacia el edificio antiguamente funcionó el laboratorio del Instituto Sanitas Chile, el cual estaba siendo refaccionado por Teresa Undurraga, creadora del afamado “Emporio La Rosa”. Hoy, “By Maria” es uno de los emprendimientos más exitosos del barrio Matadero-Franklin.
Si bien el barrio está pasando actualmente por una nueva crisis, esta vez derivada de la pandemia del Covid-19, es de esperar que los distintos “persas”, emprendimientos y locales gastronómicos del sector puedan enfrentar en conjunto este difícil momento, manteniendo la tradición de superación que caracteriza a los vecinos y trabajadores de este histórico rincón de nuestra capital.
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